Chikankari, Kalamkari, Jamdani – A Guide To Indian Textiles

Indian textiles aren’t a trend – they’re a takeover. From the catwalk to your favourite influencer’s feed, fabrics like Chikankari, Kalamkari, and Jamdani are everywhere. And before you wear them, it’s worth knowing what makes each one remarkable – because the craftsmanship behind them has been centuries in the making.

Chikankari Embroidery: The Luxury You Can’t Wish For

Forget loud prints. If there’s anything you can be sure to wear this season, it’s something that draws people closer to see the details. It’s Chikankari , and it has been doing just that since the time that the royal courts of Lucknow made it popular. This is such an elegant and obsessive embroidery, the white on white. Artisans use more than 30 types of hand stitches, each for a particular purpose:

• When the sheer fabric is lit by Bakhiya, it produces a ghost-like shadow underneath  only when the light hits it just right.
• Jali separates fibres to create a meshwork of lace that is the thinnest you’ve ever encountered.
• Murri and phanda are tiny raised knots added that create an almost three-dimensional texture.

• The pieces begin by being hand-block printed with an outline. Then, master craftsmen sew over it, all by hand. The end product is a piece of cloth that reflects light like a diamond. Haven’t noticed them from a distance. Breathtaking up close.
• You can wear it as: A floaty summer saree, an embroidered kurta set or as a dupatta over anything that requires a quick lift. Chikankari is done on muslin, georgette or chiffon, which are all light, breathable and summery fabrics. It’s the solution for a stylish outfit that looks easy, but is actually quite difficult.

Kalamkari Art: Bold, Ancient And Completely Unapologetic

Kalamkari is an ancient craft of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana that dates back more than 3,000 years. It means “pen craftsmanship”. There are two styles, both of which are worth knowing:

• Srikalahasti is freehand art, and the artists use a bamboo pen dyed with natural dyes to draw scenes from mythology (gods, goddesses, temple buildings, stories from the epics), one stroke at a time. No stencils. No guides. Just skill.

• Machilipatnam prints bold, repeating patterns using intricately carved wooden blocks. Structured but not quite as impressive as Srikalahasti.

• Both styles have a strong dedication to using natural dyes. Consider purple, turmeric, pomegranate peel and iron-rich mud. No synthetic shortcuts. These colors are earthy and well saturated, not only for the present but for ages to come!
  
• Wear it as: A saree for a cultural event; a heavily patterned dupatta that speaks a lot for the wearer; a kurta that makes all other clothing look under-dressed. For the maximalist in the house, a Kalamkari wall hanging should be a no-brainer and just as obvious as any other art hanging.

Jamdani: The Most Luxurious Fabric You’ve Never Heard Of

Let’s look at a fact that will forever change your perception about fabric: A single Jamdani fabric can take months to create. One saree. Months. Jamdani is handloom weaving to its most extreme by the people of the riverine regions of Bengal and Bangladesh. It was recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and if you get the idea of the process, you will understand why.

It’s all about how it works:

• Two weavers are sitting side by side at one hand loom.
• They hand-stitch additional threads to create complex floral and geometric patterns directly into the cloth as it is being woven.
• The patterns do not lie on top of the cloth. They reside in it.
• Since the base muslin is nearly clear, those motifs seem to be floating in the air.
• The material it makes is unusual, light and brilliant.

Don’t consider wearing a Jamdani saree as an occasion garment; it’s an heirloom. Let’s face it, it’s the one you grab when you’re at weddings, parties, and every time you want something special. It’s also the one that your daughter will challenge you for when you get older. Invest accordingly.

So, Which One Is Yours?

The Bottom Line

These three represent some of the best Indian handicrafts. When you purchase one of these items, you do more than buy a piece of cloth, you support a rich legacy that craftspeople have preserved through generations by dedicating their lives to perfecting every detail. Supporting this craftsmanship might just be the most fashion-forward thing you can do right now.

FAQs

Q1-Why is India famous for its textiles?

India has earned worldwide recognition for its textiles through its deep-rooted history, unparalleled craftsmanship, rich variety of natural fibers, and self-reliant production chain. For centuries, Indian artisans have mastered intricate techniques like block printing, handloom weaving, and vibrant dyeing traditions.

Q2-Is Chikankari handmade or machine made?

Authentic Chikankari is a traditional, centuries-old hand embroidery technique. While mechanized or computerized “chikan-style” embroidery exists in mass-market clothing, true Chikankari is crafted entirely by hand using over 30 distinct stitches.

Q3-What is Jamdani fabric made of?

Jamdani is a historic, intricately hand-woven fabric made of fine, sheer cotton (historically a type of muslin). The defining characteristic of Jamdani is that its elaborate, geometric, or floral patterns are woven directly into the fabric on the loom, giving the motifs a unique, floating appearance.